Tuesday, June 18, 2013

A Cultural Experience in downtown Kaili

Yesterday we walked from the Hotel in Kaili, called Best Fortune Hotel in English, a few blocks to the Miao Culture Museum but it was closed.  So Keren took us to a foot massage place.  The neighborhood wasn’t the cleanest so I was a bit leery—foot massages are not generally my cup of oolong anyway—but when we walked into the place I decided to keep an open mind.  George had stayed back at the hotel for a rest so it was just Tom and me and Jane and Keren.   Keren discussed price with the staff and we were told that the price was what I understood to be 100 Yuan ($15) for thirty minutes.  Okay, what the heck, it’s cheap enough, so off came the shoes, on came the rubber shower shoes and we were escorted up the stairs past a large cafĂ©/restaurant to a huge area where there was room after room filled with massage beds but not many clients.  We were led to a room with four beds, assigned to our respective bed and in came four smiling young ladies dressed in uniforms, each with a wooden bucket full of steaming water.  The buckets must have been very heavy but they lifted them with ease.   Then they brought in a cup of tea and a plate of watermelon and cherry tomatoes for each of us.  We nibbled on these snacks while they prepared for the massage.  They asked if we wanted certain oils added to the water, but Keren said no that costs extra and we don’t need any extras.  We were sitting lengthwise on our beds but the ends of the beds pulled out so that the buckets could be slid in and our feet submerged.  Too hot!  No problem—pitchers of cold water were brought in but clearly the water was supposed to be hot hot hot so I stiff-upper-lipped it and was eventually able to gingerly put in my feet. 

Then my girl began massaging my neck and shoulders.  I assumed she was allowing my feet to be disinfected by the boiling water and just killing a few minutes in the meantime. But the combination of the steaming water on my feet and her strong hands on my shoulders and neck was very soothing.  Meanwhile five or ten minutes had gone by because I was able to see the clock on the wall and I’m wondering what about the feet.  Then she began massaging my arms, one by one, using acupressure points on my wrists and hands, which felt wonderful although in certain places it hurt.  I complained a bit but Keren translated that she said it had to be hard to be of benefit.  Okay, no mercy, I shall be stoic.  Hands—each finger gently stretched, kneaded and bent back and forth.  Arms pulled, slapped, rotated, shaken.  Then each foot massaged with oil, acupressure points applied, insteps squeezed and pressed, and then wrapped in warm towels.  I had long since stopped watching the clock.

Anyway, I’ll spare you a further blow by blow description, but the $15 was for ninety minutes not thirty, and it was not only a thorough foot massage, but arms, legs, back, shoulders, neck, scalp and temples—all expertly manipulated by a little Miao girl with very strong hands.  They finished by turning us over, re-inserting the ends of the beds so we could stretch out and massaging our backs. All the while the girls chatted among themselves quietly and if you remember that old Seinfeld episode where Elaine worries that the Korean nail girls are saying mean things about her because they know she can’t understand them, you’ll know how we felt.  But Keren said that as far as he could hear, they were just talking about their daily routines.  Anyway, they were too sweet to say mean things.


When they were finished, Jane and Tom and I discussed how much to tip them while they cleared away the equipment, but then they disappeared and didn’t come back!  Keren asked at the desk and was told no tips accepted or expected.   Though we didn’t see many other clients, each of the girls does seven or eight such massages a day which is real work.  Still, it’s better than working in the fields.

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